Timing is everything when you want to shower in Lo Manthang. And believe me, with all the walking, and sand, and dust that manages to get everywhere, you want to shower. A shower in the morning is impossible as all water-mains (smallish black rubber tubes that run all throughout the mountains across Nepal) are frozen. No running water until at least 9-10 am when the sun has defrosted all tubes, in case of no sun – later. Although the water might be running at this time, it will come out of the tab near frozen, not nice for a shower you so badly want. So you wait..
With some luck and good sunshine, the solar power will heat up the water to a comfortable-ish temperature after 12-13 ‘o clock. However, it might very well be the case that the guests house you are staying in has a window to let in light and fresh air. And a window here does not necessarily mean glass, so I guess it is not so much a window as a hole in the wall, but let’s use the word window anyway.
So where was I? Ok, so it is now 13 ‘o clock and the sun (luckily) has been out and you are all excited for that shower. But, wind picks up in Upper Mustang as the clock strikes 12, and will blow mercilessly the sand and dust that you so badly wanted to shower off in the first place. And be it as it may, that this icy, dusty wind also blows directly into the open ‘window’ of the concrete room called a bathroom. It’s better that you wait till the wind dies down.
With luck this is around 17-18 ‘o clock. You don’t want to wait longer because after sunset the temperature quickly drops below zero. Ok, so it is around 17 ‘o clock and now you need to be quick. If you are (again) lucky, there are no other guests or family members that have the same idea as you and want to take that so desired shower at the perfectly timed time-slot.
Finally, there you are in a near freezing concrete room, having that so desired surprisingly nice, hottish shower. It is a shower that you do not want to stop because as soon as you turn off the water, there you are – wet in a near freezing room with a not so gentle icy breeze. And although everything moves at a comfortable and slow speed in the land of Lo. Getting dried off and dressed is definitely the exception…!
Ps. Do not be discouraged to travel the last forbidden kingdom of Lo. The views are spectacular! 😉
- Postcard: Rotterdam – 1996 – Card from Mom’s old collection, I love the poem and the water seemed fitting :).
- Picture: Lo Manthang – October 2015 – View from bathroom ‘window’ at New Lo Mantling guesthouse.